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Greetings, I guided two guests part way up Mt. Aberdeen before the forecast P.O.P of 30% became 100% in the form of driving sheets of rain and freezing winds. I had brought a second rope to lessen the number of rappels off the ice tongue and was glad of it! Apart from that brutal weather, Aberdeen is in about as good condition as I have seen it. We took the upper approach trail in and this was a good choice since on the way back we were loath to go uphill and followed the drainage back. This has almost no more snow that usually speeds things up here. A bit of a tedious knee jarring affair currently but not too bad. The lower serac that threatens the approach ice tongue seems smaller and less threatening than usual but do not be fooled. A big, big fellow is hanging there and though not teetering it will inevitably go at some point. One can gear up out of hazards way and adopt a lower traverse plenty far away before angling towards the ice tongue. The initial couple of pitches are beautiful polished aqua colored ice with little in the way of imbedded rocks. The upper firn line is quite high with spongy snow to the bergschrund. There are some big crevasses to negotiate but they have excellent albeit exposed bridges of ice that are easily crossed. The schrund also has good bridges. The little serac that lives above the upper bergschrund on final approach to the Haddo/Aberdeen col is tamer than I have seen it in the past and seems to be rounding more and more on its left margin. Surprisingly we did not get much snow accumulation, mainly rain and wet melting snow. We did 4 X 60 meter rappels down the ice tongue. Reading the Selected Alpine Climbs description, having done this classic several times, I am reminded again how many routes described in this great book are downplayed. The approach is not that short, I do not agree that the climbing is 'not to technical' after all, when your using two ice axes and doing hanging belays, I'd say that's actually plenty technical eh? The descent actually involves several rappels on v-threads. Or one may venture down the Paradise Valley exit, which several experienced alpinist's have assured me is a long helish affair. Happy trails, Eric Dumerac - Professional Mountain Guide Mountain Skills Academy Owner/Operator   _______________________________________________ These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information. See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml/unsubscribe to remove your name from this list. |
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