[MCR] Rockies, Mt Andromeda, Eisenhower Tower, Aftenroe

Subject: [MCR] Rockies, Mt Andromeda, Eisenhower Tower, Aftenroe
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 17:28:05 -0600
On Sept 12th I guided an attempt on the AA Col route of Mt Andromeda. Winter in 
the morning and summer in the afternoon. Brewster's monster truck ice bus 
window washing pail was frozen one foot deep when we passed by it in the wee 
hours. The bergshrunds below the Earth Gullies and the normal AA Col slope (A 
route I like to call "Little Earth") all look challenging so we chose an easy 
crossing closer to Athabasca. Above was four ropelengths of good quality low 
end alpine ice and snow climbing to gain the col. We turned around at the 
Andromeda side of the col due to moderate to strong wind gusts and my Japanese 
client feeling the altitude.

Sept 13th, Indian Summer and we were the only party on Le Soulier on Tunnel 
Mountain.

Sept 14th, a beautiful day on Eisenhower Tower via the right hand variation 
suggested in the new, and long awaited, Banff Rock. There is indeed less fixed 
gear on this side, we found one piton. Some recent snow clinging to the 
Rockbound Lake side of Goat Plateau, but the Tower is bone dry.

Sept 15th, build it and they will come, we were at the lead end of five parties 
on Aftenroe, Guides Rock, Mt Cory (one party leaving the base as we walked away 
to total 6). There is a need for good quality bolted routes of intermediate 
difficulty.

Happy trails,
 
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com

image/jpg


Mt Andromeda, Sept 12th. The ice lines of the  Earth Climbs from left to right: 
Little Earth, Far Earth, Middle Earth and Near Earth (you see them in reverse 
as you walk up the AA Glacier).

image/jpg


Eisenhower Tower, Sept 14th.




_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The 
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in 
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable 
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information 
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions 
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml/unsubscribe to remove your name from 
this list.