Hello Everyone,Last posting unfortunately the photo wasn't attached - pardon me.
I hope everyone has been enjoying the fine weather up until now.
It
was reported to us towards the end of this summer that the last Sir
Donald descent rappel (# 12) was damaged as a result of a rockfall event
that likely took place this spring.
Myself and Danyelle Magnan climbed up 1/3 of the NW Ridge route and
then descended from station # 5, where the rap route leaves the ridge
and descends the face. Our aim was to assess the damage to station # 12
(the last one) and to possibly reposition the station to avoid exposing
climbers to additional rockfall exposure as well as repeated damage to
the stations themselves. Upon arriving there it was evident that the
station # 11 had sustained some damage as well.
There is a very big and obvious light coloured rock scar in the
large left-facing corner system above these last two stations
(approximately 150 meters above) with enormous precarious looking blocks
that remain from that aforementioned rockfall event. Additionally,
there are loads of very unstable and loose rocks strewn all about the
ledges just below this station which adds additional rockfall potential
when pulling the rope after the rappel.
We repositioned the stations approximately 40-45 meters to the climber's
left or skier's right on the darker quartzite which mitigates the
overhead hazards and will keep folks out of the pain funnel. They are both
25m raps. The route description remains the same. If you are familiar
with the old stations, rather than traversing into the light coloured
rock, continue to scramble/downclimb ~10m staying in the dark coloured
(ie. not scarred) rock. Station # 11 is now ~ 40m to skiers right of the
old location. The bottom of the 11th rappel puts you on another sloping
ledge just
above an big overhanging break which is visible below you from that
station. The final rap (Station # 12), takes you over an overhang and
is a free-hanging rap for about 3-4 meters, then on to the lower
angle slabs and finally to the scree/talus at the bottom
* Please note
station # 12 needs an additional anchor bolt which will be installed
early next week - for anyone going up there in the next few days, a .75
or 1 Camalot will back up that single bolt *
Play Safe,
Paddy Jerome
IFMGA Mountain Guide
Visitor Safety Technician
Mount Revelstoke & Glacier National Parks
Ph. 250 814 3524
patrick.jerome@xxxxxxxx
Sir Donald raps- new 11-12 stn copy.jpg
Description: JPEG image
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