Spent the week at the Icefields teaching a mountaineering course and found generally good conditions overall.
The snow and wind from last week has made travel better below 2700 meters as the footing is more secure over the glacial ice and was only boot top deep at best. Above this elevation windslabs are a growing concern on N and E aspects and there were areas with up to 60cms of foot penetration. Glacier travel is becoming a bit more challenging as the new snow is starting to hide the crevasses so prudent travel techniques and a ski pole for probing are valuable tools right now.
As of yesterday there was no snow at the Icefields campground but that may be changing currently and it officially closes in the next few days. There is no water available from the normal tap as a pipe broke last week from cold temperatures so we were getting it from the Icefields centre.
All of the ice faces looked just that..icy and grey, blown snow free from strong winds. The big mixed routes (A Strain, Grand Central, etc) looked to be lacking ice in places where you would want it but that was from a fair distance away.
Have fun!
Matt Peter
Darek Glowacki
Mike Stuart
ACMG Guides
CanadianAlpineGuides.com
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