I climbed Amadeus today, November 7, with my friend, Juan. The climb is in
marginal and serious shape. Almost all of the ice is detached with water
running behind it, hopefully tonight's cold temps weld it back to the rock. We
took, and used, a pretty full rock rack. A number 3 camalot would be great to
have on the slab pitch. We took a belay on rock left of the first pillar at the
far end of the slab. We could see daylight, and water, behind the first pillar
and opted to climb a good dry tooling crack that leads to the three bolt
halfway belay on the left side. The upper half was climbed on ice, almost all
of which gonged.
A fresh 5 cm of snow in Canmore right now.
Happy trails,
Barry Blanchard
UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide
http://www.barryblanchard.ca
http://www.yamnuska.com
barryb3@xxxxxxxxx
1 403 609 4615
cell 1 403 609 1321
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