[MCR] The Urs Hole - Cascade Mountain, Banff Park

Based on having enjoyed a couple of fun climbing days in the same location at the same time last year, I returned (with friends) to The Urs Hole on Thursday, Nov 15 2012 to take a look.

We found the route to be thin in places, but all there. There is significant water flow in the drainage, mostly beneath the ice surface. Each of us had at least one 'foot soaker' from punching through soft slab into running water. 

My main curiosity was to find out what had become of the huge, glacial-like avalanche debris deposits under which (by headlamp) we traveled last year. What would have been the roof overhead at this time last year has melted out by more than 50% and has, largely, collapsed leaving many kitchen table to passenger van sized debris blocks in the drainage. One thin, 'dinosaur neck' like bridge remains overhead. It would seem unlikely for it to remain intact under the strain of its own weight. 

The angular nature of the debris, along with a lack of cohesion among the ice blocks (two large blocks shifted and collapsed in our passing), and the remaining overhead hazard led us to turn tail and get out of there. We didn't proceed to the upper pitches.

Also, of note on the descent: The anchor bolts at the top of the second pitch are both badly damaged. The ring bolt hangers are significantly deformed, both bolt studs have been levered out of the rock by 10mm (and bent), and the nuts on the studs are effectively 'mashed'. 

[Photo attached: Looking down at debris blocks with the 'dinosaur neck' feature above (obscured)]

-- 
Mark Miller

ACMG Apprentice Hiking Guide / Top Rope Climbing Instructor

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