Generosity *** 5.9 or .10b/c 400 m, F.A. E Dumerac, P Norrie 1998.
Vars:
Freefall (aka Jail Rape) 5.8 R 400 m, F.A. Dumerac, T Wolfe 1998. Not
recommended.
Dumocrack *** 5.11- F.A. Dumerac, S King, 2003
Generosity is an excellent addition to long moderates in the valley. The
route is on EEOR and the rock is excellent. Water runnels, perfect face,
layback, chimney, cracks... good approach, easy walk off, bolted stations,
set up for guiding...this route has it all. Here is the topo and some pics
my client took on the route and 1 pic on Kahl Wall.
The history of the first ascent: Freefall/Jail Rape went almost straight up
the Banff formation rotten corner, and was marred by poor rock and a 100ft.
plus screamer. This non-recommended variation (Jail Rape a.k.a. Free Fall in
Bow Valley Rock book) was redirected two weeks later to incomparable
Palliser formation rock to the right and now makes a fantastic route.
Description only goes to p.6 but you can figure the rest out with topo.
Notes:
Gear: Standard rack from blue TCU to # 3 cam. Bring a tag line or 2 ropes if
you intend to rap(I have always done it with a single 60M).
Approach: as for Guides Route, past large frost pocket cave and @ 2nd cave
with stand of spruce route starts right a toe of rock left of trees. At
station 8 several options exist (see pic 50).
The crack on the left is well protected and goes at .10-, the crack between
the .10 and chimney goes at .11r (bring KB), the Chimney on the right is
recommended with awesome holds inside, the offwidth to the right of the
chimney is unclimbed.
At p. 8 (this is pic 58) is where there is a bolted traverse leading left to
the giant corner and the Dumocrack variation. This is the excellent crack
you can see splitting the face left and above giant corner. For this
variation traverse left for 50M to station. Climb a 5.10b/c pitch w/bolts to
alcove and station. Jam up the long Yosemite crack to station (as good as AB
jam or sunset boul.). Climb up and left to summit through 5.9 well protected
flakes. For this variation beef up your rack with extra #1,2 and 3 cams.
Pictures:
Generosity.jpg is the topo
Pic 57: water runnel pitch...cool!
Pic. 55, traversing perfect rock into big chimney
Pic 50: photo from Station 8
Pic 58: Bolted traverse photo
pic.29 is me on Kahl wall you can use to entice your clients.
All pics coutresy of "Heavy Tipper" Howard Sebold. P.S. As promised D.
Scott, enjoy... DO IT. Dumocrack.
--------
Note: "Jail Rape" is Eric's name of choice due to the lasting psychological
effects of the enema he received from Canmore's young nurses the next day
(I'm not joking, this actually happened). "Free Fall" is a random name
chosen by the editors of the last edition of Bow Valley Rock (any guesses
why?) and is Tom's name of choice due to the memory of the searing pain of
rope burns in both hands (also no joke) as he stopped what for the average
man would have been an unstoppable fall. Fortunately, Tom is well below
average, so all Eric ended up suffering was the enema. -T.W.
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