Did Polar
Circus today. Not a lot of snow fell in Mt. Cirrus area in the past 24, but (judging by the road conditions) south of Sask Crossing there
was significant wet snow over the past 24.
Even with overcast skies there was a fair
amount of solar radiated heat penetrating the snow today at all elevations. It
was -8C at the road at 5:30 and we were off by noon. I would definitely
recommend saving this route (and other routes on Cirrus, Wilson, and Murchison)
for cold nights, overcast days and combine with early starts (and fast
ascents). I wouldn’t want to be hanging around up there much past 1300 or
1400.
Also climbed Sea of Vapors two days ago. Things are generally dry and cold up
on the Trophy Wall. SOV is in great shape….well protected and hooked out.
The route has an extra 10-15 meters above where the route normally ends. This
is the crux with 95 degree ice that is quite brittle and not as hooked out as
the ice below. The approach was well broken as of two days ago. Postscriptum
goes at WI5 and the traverse can be done as thin ice with good (10-13cm) ice
screws on both sides to keep it at WI5+ ish.
Kitty
Hawk- as of three days ago was in fine WI 5 shape but the upper pitch is
rotting out quickly with the direct sun it sees for a couple hours between 9-11
am. The upper slope gets the sun for much longer and this si another climb that
has significant snow, ice, and rockfall hazard from above on these sunny/warm
days.
Carlsberg
Column, Cascade Kronenburg, Pilsner- All
very fat and hooked out. Cascade Kronenburg is a little harder to protect but
the climbing is on solid features.
Tis the season to GET UP EARLY to avoid overhead hazards
(rock fall, ice fall and avalanches) and to beat the crowds.
Rob Owens
ASS ALPINE GUIDE