Hot weather and rapid melting of the winter snowpack was the key factor
this week. For the most part the mountains are at least a couple of weeks
ahead of what would be normal snow amounts for this time of year . Most of
the standard rock routes are now in excellent shape with only minor
concerns about ice or snow patches on the routes or descents. Alpine snow
and ice routes are in a state of transition with rapid melting. Lots of ice
patches are beginning to show up on the lower slopes and the bergshrunds
are beginning to gape. Deep runnels have formed higher up. With the warm
overnight temperatures there has been very little crust formation and wet
snow avalanching and rockfall are a real concern. Foot penetration seems to
vary with aspect elevation and time of day. Although some routes are
possible, careful evaluation must be given to the potential for avalanche
and the lack of good protection in the transition from ice to snow. Bring
insect repellent for the lower elevations.
Brad White
UIAGM Mountain Guide
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