Up the East ridge and down the NW ridge yesterday. Crampons on to gain
the col at the base of the E ridge in the early morning cold (05:30).
Put crampons on again to cross the snow coulior on top of the lower
ridge. On the level shoulder traverse possible to kick steps across
several snow slopes. Crux step of the steep upper ridge is dry and snow
can be mostly avoided by playing the left side of the ridge. At about
10,500' we put crampons on. Hard work traversing the summits with
sometimes supportive and sometimes breakable crust. Best to rap the
shale step on the NW ridge right now as snow and ice complicate turning
it (if I had it to do over ...). Took crampons off at 10,560' and
scramble down to the meadows to change to running shoes for the long
walk out. One more week of summer weather should have the route in top
drawer shape.
Happy trails
Barry Blanchard, Mountain Guide
www.yamnuska.com
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