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2.15 AM start on the Normal (North Glacier) Route of
Mt. Athabasca on Saturday 7/22 with temps estimated around +10C at the parking
lot @ 2000m. Snow coverage started around 2900 m on the North Glacier. The
traverse across the ramp below the Silverhorn was well tracked in and
quite steep in spots (see image) - a large and obvious crevasse bridge can also
be bypassed a bit higher than the main track, a small detour that
seems worth-while given the effects of the heat wave. Nil overnight
refreeze to mountain top, but travel was still manageable in
the slushy snow. I had a look at the descent down the AA col side, which at
10AM had not yet seen any sun, however the snow overlying the ice
was water saturated and there was reason to be concerned to see it slide
with the day time warming. We opted to descent the way we came down the
North Glacier.
While on Thursday the Sky Ladder on Andromeda appeared
from the distance somewhat like a snow / ice climb, by Saturday afternoon it was
looking totally rotten with black streaks running down the lower parts.
Hope for cooler temps........
Jorg Wilz
Mountain Guide IFMGA
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