[MCR] Further notes to Sir Donald..

Subject: [MCR] Further notes to Sir Donald..
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 13:56:56 -0600
Climbed the route yesterday and as Jordy mentioned, it is a very busy place. 
With respect to the west face rappel route, there are a couple of things to keep in mind..
One is to consider descending back down the ridge to the col if people are still high on the route.  Once you start the rappels you are in the rockfall zone until well off of the face and down the scree.  There are numerous large blocks that are easily knocked off by the rope or tired feet high on the ridge.  We witnessed massive rockfall crash down the rap line from the upper ridge and at the time there were seven parties descending.  The other thing is that just about all of the raps are full 25 meters - if using a 50 meter rope tie knots!  Getting to the last set of ring bolts just above the scree (on the white slab) is more than 25 meters.  Be careful.
 
Cheers   
 
Mike Stuart
ACMG Assistant Alpine Guide
E: m_stuart@xxxxxxxxx