[MCR] Coire Dub - Seasonal anchors

Subject: [MCR] Coire Dub - Seasonal anchors
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2007 20:47:51 -0700
1.with many bad V threads arround this time of year, lets stop equalizing crap and clean thing up, cut pull, stash and trash. We will all enjoy a nicer and safer climb in the long run not to mention we are reducing our impact!

2.Guided Coire Dub.

Conditions today at the base colder than expected (-2) .
Light snow (grauple and hail) accompamied by occasion strong gusts...we were motivated Ok!

At the top of the ice the temps (-6) wind and some light spindrifts just added to the program. Visibility not so good. Winds were as expected for the area but not as bad as usual.

Overall Conditions:
The ice is still in good condition but the frist pitch is leaving soon. As long as the temps stay low things should not be too bad. However, rock fall hazard will be a growing issue on warm days. rocks are melting out of the ice. The first bolted anchor is burried and V treads shoudl be done before use, they are not lasting. The snow on the upper benches is deteriorating and soon scree will be the only option but by that time maybe the route wont be worth a "winter outing".


P.S.: I avoid the first 5.7 corner with a weekness left of the litle twin ice flows. The climbing is secure and the gear is good, (5.2) - (M easy) maybe, judge for your self.

Cheers
Patrick Delaney

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