A stationary upper low has dominated the weather pattern for several
weeks now. This has resulted in unseasonably cold and showery weather.
With freezing levels fluctuating between 1500-2500 m, and light to
moderate precip amounts, travel conditions have been more like May than
June.
As a result of this weather, many mountain and alpine areas have seen
little traffic thus far, both from recreationalists and guides.
Cerise Ck trail is in good condition from Hwy 99. Driving the old
logging road to the summer parking lot is no longer recommended (due to
significant regrowth of alders), unless you have an old beater that you
don't mind paint and windshield damage (saw a truck in their last
weekend, which had experienced this). The trail into Cerise is mostly
snow free until the North Joffre Creek crossing. Last weekend, parties
were able to hike straight up to the hut from here via this drainage. It
may be more difficult now depending on snowmelt. A fair bit of
suncupping up to 1800m, but slopes are still quite smooth and skiable
above this elevation.
Joffre Lakes trail reported mostly snow free now to the third lake.
The central coast range is reported by one guide to be quite good skiing
in the alpine. Corn snow on most aspects.
Glacier travel in most of the coast range is currently straightforward
due to an abundant winter snowpack leftover from last winter. Most
crevasses, and bergschrunds are well bridged. With cooler temps, and
surface freezing, foot penetration is minimal. Expect this to change if
temperatures warm.
A good gauge of winter snowpack leftover on the south coast can be
inferred from viewing the Whistler Webcam posted on the
Whistler/Blackcomb website. Today you can view continuous snow down to
the base of the 7th heaven lift. In addition, the webcam shows a
reasonable view of the snow conditions on Blackcomb Peak.
Some weather models are now predicting that a major shift in the weather
pattern will occur mid next week with (hopefully) a summer ridge
building. With this, expect much warmer temps to occur, and snow
conditions in the alpine to deteriorate during the daytime. Deeper foot
penetrations, loose snow avalanches, and possible cornice failures. With
significant warming, it is possible that there may still be deep slab
releases on old winter snowpack layers.
Coastal Rock climbing has been minimal due to wet conditions, however
route production has been in full swing. Reports in Squamish of many new
routes in the Smoke Bluffs (with bolts disappearing and reappearing on
almost a daily basis due to conflicts in ethics), North Walls, and
Squaw. Occasionally new topos/descriptions of routes are posted in the
outdoor stores in Squamish.
The Upper Malamute access is quite dangerous due to recently fallen
trees. There has already been one serious injury and evacuation of a
climber accessing the cliff. It is reported that there is a new trail
further south of the previous one. The author of this report has yet to
confirm this.
All the best for a great long weekend!
Brian Gould
Mountain Guide
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