ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued June 28, 2007
Consensus seems to be that conditions in the Rockies and the Interior are more typical of early
June. Snow levels are still quite low and travel conditions on the snow
are a function of freezing levels, overnight recovery and daytime
warming. During this solstice period, the “colder” part of
the night is quite short; snow conditions can go from reasonable to dangerous
very quickly. Travelling on the snow can range from good firm walking to
wallowing up to your waist. Steep snow routes will be a serious gamble
depending on how well the snow freezes overnight and how long the crusts lasts.
Large cornices are present in all the ranges.
In the Bugaboos snow levels are still 50 meters below the
Conrad Kain Hut. Crescent
Towers and the west face
of Snowpatch are probably climbable although the Kraus McCarthy will undoubtedly
be wet. The west ridge of Pigeon is likely not in shape.
In Glacier
Park, the normal route on
Tupper is getting climbed and routes on the west face of McDonald are in
shape. Sir Donald is not in shape. Snow levels are below the Hermit
campground and the sign at the campground was not visible as of last weekend.
In the Lake Louise area,
this week’s new snow has settled and bonded to old surface. A 12 cm
crust is what is holding the snow pack together. This crust is supportive
and holding things together as long as solar radiation does not come into
play. Once this crust breaks down penetration is up to waist deep and
there is a significant potential for deep slab avalanches. The Perren
route in the Moraine lake area is in reasonable shape but the Schiesser route
is not. Routes such as the SE ridge of Victoria are not in shape. At
the Columbia Icefields, the AA col, Silverhorn and Athabasca
north Face have been getting climbed during cool periods when snow conditions
have remained favourable.
Marc Ledwidge
Mountain Guide