[MCR] (no subject)

Subject: [MCR] (no subject)
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2007 18:09:04 -0600

ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued June 28, 2007

 

Consensus seems to be that conditions in the Rockies and the Interior are more typical of early June.  Snow levels are still quite low and travel conditions on the snow are a function of freezing levels, overnight recovery and daytime warming.  During this solstice period, the “colder” part of the night is quite short; snow conditions can go from reasonable to dangerous very quickly.  Travelling on the snow can range from good firm walking to wallowing up to your waist.  Steep snow routes will be a serious gamble depending on how well the snow freezes overnight and how long the crusts lasts.  Large cornices are present in all the ranges.

 

In the Bugaboos snow levels are still 50 meters below the Conrad Kain Hut.   Crescent Towers and the west face of Snowpatch are probably climbable although the Kraus McCarthy will undoubtedly be wet.  The west ridge of Pigeon is likely not in shape.

 

In Glacier Park, the normal route on Tupper is getting climbed and routes on the west face of McDonald are in shape.  Sir Donald is not in shape.  Snow levels are below the Hermit campground and the sign at the campground was not visible as of last weekend.

 

In the Lake Louise area, this week’s new snow has settled and bonded to old surface.  A 12 cm crust is what is holding the snow pack together.  This crust is supportive and holding things together as long as solar radiation does not come into play.  Once this crust breaks down penetration is up to waist deep and there is a significant potential for deep slab avalanches.  The Perren route in the Moraine lake area is in reasonable shape but the Schiesser route is not.  Routes such as the SE ridge of Victoria are not in shape.  At the Columbia Icefields, the AA col, Silverhorn and Athabasca north Face have been getting climbed during cool periods when snow conditions have remained favourable.

 

Marc Ledwidge

Mountain Guide