Subject: | [MCR] Mt. Athabasca and Icefields - June 27 |
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Date: | Wed, 27 Jun 2007 16:49:13 -0700 |
Climbed Mt. Athabasca North Face Bypass today (June 27th)and down the Ramp Route. There was good freeze last night. We enjoyed a pleasant mix of sun and clouds, with a light breeze keeping the snowpack cool above 3000 meters. As Peter stated, the recent snowfall has accumulated. We got to the North Face 'schrund without crampons, easy travel on the trail, and even easier across the basin from the Silverhorn to the North Face (wind scoured supportive crust). Easy 'schrund crossing. Recent sluffing activity on the North Face. The North Face is in good shape (good snow and a little ice showing). The Silverhorn is also in good shape with recent winds scouring off much of the new snow hazard. Styrofoam steps with good crampon purchase up left side of North Face to join the Northeast Ridge. A little sporty on the upper northeast ridge with rotten snow and the usual downsloping rotten plates of rock. Bring some pitons/hammer and few small cams (.25" to 1"). It was a fast, easy descent down the Ramp, but there is up to 45cm of new snow with knee deep boot penetration. The new snow there hadn't formed a slab yet, but there is potential with some winds for a significant slab to form. One party turned back on an attempt at ascending the Ramp early this morning, and we broke trail when we descended the Ramp at 11:AM. I hadn't been on the Ramp in quite a while, and I was reminded why. It is a steep place that is often loaded with snow, and the consequences of a fall or an avalanche involvement are severe (see photo). In my opinion the AA Col approach / descent is usually (but not always) a better option. We removed crampons above the Ramp for the rest of the descend as the new snow was getting sticky. Crampons are great but when the snow balls up and prevents the points from sticking they become a huge hazard. I have also included photos of Bryce, Columbia and Andromeda. Jordy Shepherd Mountain Guide
Athabasca North Face Exit June 27.jpg
Athabasca Ramp Consequences - June 27th.jpg
Bryce June 27.jpg
Columbia and Andromeda June 27.jpg |
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