Climbed Mt. Athabasca North Face Bypass today (June 27th)and down the Ramp
Route. There was good freeze last night. We enjoyed a pleasant mix of sun and
clouds, with a light breeze keeping the snowpack cool above 3000 meters. As
Peter stated, the recent snowfall has accumulated.
We got to the North Face 'schrund without crampons, easy travel on the trail,
and even easier across the basin from the Silverhorn to the North Face (wind
scoured supportive crust). Easy 'schrund crossing. Recent sluffing activity
on the North Face. The North Face is in good shape (good snow and a
little ice showing). The Silverhorn is also in good shape with recent winds
scouring off much of the new snow hazard. Styrofoam steps with good crampon
purchase up left side of North Face to join the Northeast Ridge. A little
sporty on the upper northeast ridge with rotten snow and the usual downsloping
rotten plates of rock. Bring some pitons/hammer and few small cams (.25" to
1").
It was a fast, easy descent down the Ramp, but there is up to 45cm of new snow
with knee deep boot penetration. The new snow there hadn't formed a slab yet,
but there is potential with some winds for a significant slab to form. One
party turned back on an attempt at ascending the Ramp early this morning, and
we broke trail when we descended the Ramp at 11:AM.
I hadn't been on the Ramp in quite a while, and I was reminded why. It is a
steep place that is often loaded with snow, and the consequences of a fall or
an avalanche involvement are severe (see photo). In my opinion the AA Col
approach / descent is usually (but not always) a better option.
We removed crampons above the Ramp for the rest of the descend as the new snow
was getting sticky. Crampons are great but when the snow balls up and prevents
the points from sticking they become a huge hazard.
I have also included photos of Bryce, Columbia and Andromeda.
Jordy Shepherd
Mountain Guide
Athabasca North Face Exit June 27.jpg
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Athabasca Ramp Consequences - June 27th.jpg
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Bryce June 27.jpg
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Columbia and Andromeda June 27.jpg
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