[MCR] Jasper Park Conditions Update - July 29

Subject: [MCR] Jasper Park Conditions Update - July 29
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 16:05:30 -0700
A lot of snow has melted in the past few weeks.  Expect bare ice and rock on a 
lot of the routes in the Jasper area.  Warm nights have been contributing to 
the snowmelt.  

Recent avalanche activity was noted on a Warden patrol in the Mt. Albera area, 
with slab avalanches to size 2.5, and 1 meter deep crowns.  Numerous isothermal 
point releases and lots of rockfall were also observed.  The Japanese Route is 
still pretty wet and snowy, and is reported to not be in very good climbing 
shape yet.

A recent report from the north face of Mt. Athabasca confirms Barry Blanchard's 
thoughts from last winter: the crux rock/mixed terrain at the base of the exit 
gully is now a few body lengths, and should probably be considered to be more 
like a 5.8 rating.  The fixed pitons are still there, but as the runout is more 
lengthy, it would be good to bring a few nuts and a selection of pitons with a 
hammer to augment the fixed pins.  It would also be a good idea to place good 
ice protection before launching onto the rock.

Skyladder is a mess of dirty ice and lots of rock/mud showing, and is not 
recommended.  Wait for good snow in the fall or next spring.  Lots of crevasses 
starting to show on the north glacier on Mt. Athabasca, and there have been 
reports of climbers stepping through thin bridges near the ramp route.

The east ridge of Edith Cavell had upwards of 6 parties on it yesterday.  
Reports indicate firm snow on the approach to the col, where crampons were 
helpful.  There is some snow in the gully that you cross at the top of the 
first step, and crampons were not required there due to the warm nights but 
that will change if we get a good freeze.  After that, the ridge is reported to 
be dry, and you can easily avoid the cornice and snow on the summit ridge by 
staying on dry rock.

Rock routes like Pevril Peak, Meisner Ridge, and Mount Colin are in ultra-dry 
condition (bring lots of water!).

Just a reminder that Jasper Park is presently in extreme fire danger, and any 
sparks (cigarettes, campfires etc) have a high probablility of becoming a very 
large forest fire.  Don't be the one to make the front page of the papers!

Jordy Shepherd
Alpine Specialist, Jasper Park
Mountain Guide




_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The 
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in 
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable 
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information 
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions 
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.