Firstly make sure you have bug repellant!
the bridge over Penstock Ck just below the Wates Gibson hut is
broken. You can ford the river 100m downstream where it flattens out.
Climbed Paragon Pk via E ridge. Thought it would be good to give a
picture with a bit of beta.
This route is over simplified in selected climbs... It is a great
climb, awesome views, excellent position, but the right route is
important, especially getting to the base!
Take trail outside the Wates Gibson hut to lake above (15min)
Cross outlet of small lake, cross creek from Fraser glacier then
head down and rgihttowards moraines taking you towards Paragon.
contour around both moraines to a lake. Follow route marked in
picture, then up gully of grass. The right gully is the one with a
little Turret on the climbers left (T), higher up contour left to
gain the Gendarmes (G).
Follow these along till possible to drop onto north side on snow.
follow easily to base of east ridge. Gained ridge on left, (5.0) then
a bit higher up (C) crux pitch is 5.6 if you go straight up, 5.4 if
you trend up and left, over a block to a belay, I slung a huge block
which is better than the pins that are in an awkward spot for the
rappell on the way down. Another short pitch above this was rappelled
where a short off width chimney is climbed. an anchor is easily found
on the climbers left with a 30ft rappell. The rest is short roping,
lots of little steps, fun climbing.... a 40 meter rope is enough.
descent is the same way...
Fraser glacier looked good up higher, no significant crevasses stood
out, ice to gain it from the pass.
Outpost looks in good shape, glacier seems to be dramatically
receding. Other routes looked in good shape.
Peter Amann
Peter Amann
Mountain Guiding
Box 1495, Jasper AB, T0E 1E0
780 852 3237
cell 780 931 2521
www.incentre.net/pamann/
pamann@xxxxxxxxxxxx
paragon route.jpg
Description: JPEG image
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continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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