[MCR] North ridge Mt Athabasca, July 1

Subject: [MCR] North ridge Mt Athabasca, July 1
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2008 06:45:03 -0600
Climbed up the North ridge of Mt Athabasca, July 1, from the Athabasca/Boundry Peak col to the shoulder where the North Face bypass route intersects. Good travel on the Athabasca North Glacier in the morning. North Ridge is basically dry, we put crampons on for one pitch just below the crux. The crux is an honest hand/off-hand width corner crack, several hand to fist sized cams will make you feel better. Thunder sent us packing from the summit rock band. 10 meters of downcimbing and seven 25-30 meter rappels, starting from the flat section of the shoulder, put us onto the glacier where we beat a retreat.

Haven't been on the route since 1983, overall the rock is decent, but it is a long and involved climb. We left the car at 04:00 and got back to it at 18:30.

A party of 3 climbed the Silverhorn while we were on the mountain.

Happy Canada Day,
eh.

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
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