[MCR] Schiesser Ledges, Kallen/Roth on Mt Fay.

Subject: [MCR] Schiesser Ledges, Kallen/Roth on Mt Fay.
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2008 07:35:34 -0600
We climbed up the Schiesser Ledges to the Colgan Hut on July 7th. A half a dozen snow patches to kick steps in over the length of the route, good step kicking conditions with an ice edge around the perimeter of the snow. The once red paint that marks the route has faded to orange and can, unfortunately, resemble orange lichen. The chains are still in place in the rock bands, but avalanches? have stripped the cable.

The night of July 7th provided a decent freeze. July 8th we climbed the Kallen/Roth to the summit of Mt Fay. The Bergshrund looked wide from below and we opted to cross it one rope-length to climber's right via a bridge and some M1 climbing to gain the rock 30 meters higher. A one pitch left rising rock traverse over rubble ledges bought us back to the route. Ice anchors all the way. Some small rock- fall on route. We rapped the route off of a slung block then 5 abalakovs (the bergshrund may be crossable dead centre in the route).

The Chouinard and Berle/Kallen routes are a mess with recent serac calving. Looks like the whole glacier is going to fall off! There is a size 2.5 slab out of the bottom of the Central Ice Bulge Direct, crown line of the slab up to 1 meter deep and down to the permanent ice surface. Normal route looks good with an eyebrow bridging the bergschrund.

Descended the Schiesser Ledges July 9th. Added a rappel station about halfway up where the last cable use to be.

Happy trails

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The 
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in 
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable 
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information 
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions 
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.