ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for
the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued July 10, 2008
In general, cooler weather over the past week has improved the travel
conditions in the mountains and has given us a return to “normal”
July conditions.
I expect that today’s precipitation will have changed the
conditions somewhat. Rains in the valley and new snow higher up is
occurring in spotty areas from Rogers
pass through to the Continental Divide. A little patience will be needed if you
are considering high alpine routes; allow them time to clean off. With the
return to the west flow on Friday and moderately warmer temperatures forecast
for the next week, a good freeze and early start will still be the key to safer
travel on the alpine routes.
With recent cooler temperatures, avalanche activity has not been
as widespread as in the previous weeks however there have been reports recent
large slab avalanches in Little Yoho area; so last winter’s deep
weaknesses are not history quite yet. The snow and rain of today will decrease
stability in the short term. Isothermal snow, slab failure and cornice failure
must still be considered for judicious route selections.
Reports have been coming in through out the Rockies, Glacier National Park
and the Bugaboos. Most parties have been reporting fairly good travel on firm
snow with some exceptions. In the Columbia Ice fields travel in and around the
2400 meter level is on mushy or isothermal snow and post holing conditions do
exist. This has been echoed by mountaineers on the Wapta over the last week.
Most alpine routes have been in good shape and many of the classic snow
and ice routes are getting climbed. Valley rock routes have been dry and longer
alpine rock routes have been mostly dry with some snow patches on northern
aspects and some snow still lurking in gullies. Many routes are still shedding
rock from the winter freeze thaws so beware of loose rock and rock fall. Ice
axes and crampons should still be considered for approaches.
Watch for rising water levels if your route involves a creek over river
crossing.
Be patient over the next couple of days and allow the new snow to melt
off or settle out. The rock routes will dry out faster and a couple of days
cragging may be in order before committing to any bigger alpine routes.
Have fun out there but be aware.
Dave Stark
Mountain Guide