Hi All,
Climbed the SW ridge of Gray peak in Kokanee Glacier Provincial Park yesterday. It was a very hot day in the alpine with temperatures rising into the upper 20s. The ridge is totally dry with lots of exposed 4th and low 5th climbing on generally solid granite with one 20m rappel along the way. The vertical is about 1200m including 500m of technical terrain higher up. See NTS map 82 F/11 (Kokanee peak) for more details. The route is III 5.4, a great easy day route if you are looking at doing something close to Nelson.
The descent involves some easy travelling on snow and ice. Crampons and ice axe were very useful to get off the north side of the peak via a short 50m long 45 degree chute. Foot pen in the heat of the day was less than 15cm. Firn snow seem to be melting faster down here than further north and east due to a generally warmer/dryer weather pattern. Crevasses on the Kokanee glacier are opening up and lots of ice is showing on the various glacier toe.
Enjoy this great summer weather!
David Lussier
MG
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