|
ACMG Mountain Conditions Report - Summary
Rockies and Columbia Mountains. August 7, 2008
Yet another week of changing weather has passed us by. Last weekend we were dressed for winter, navigating verglass and sweeping off snow above 2800m. Today it was bluebird and approaching 30 degrees in the valley bottom. Alas, the stable ridge of high pressure has not yet arrived, and another pulse of poor weather is forecast for this weekend. Improving again on Monday.
Great beta this week as lots of guides are in the mountains. Thanks to Marc Piche for the awesome photos.
Lake Louise group
The snow up high is melting fast and ice patches are growing rapidly on the glaciers and ice faces. The easy cruising up snow is finished on Mt. Lefroy, so expect ice now. Mt. Victoria is in great shape and was climbed a few times. In general, crevasses are appearing but mostly still well covered. This might change. E Ridge of Temple was snowy above 3000 m but is melting fast and probably good. High alpine rock faces are snowy and wet right now.
Bugaboos
Prime time - the routes are in great shape. The usual bergshrund is just starting to open up on the Bugaboo/Snowpatch col but is no trouble to pass on the right. The slope is still snow. There is a stomped trail through the covered crevasses on the hike across to Pigeon - attention soloists: don't forget there are crevasses here and people fall in them regularly.
Columbia Icefields
Snow over ice made for awesome ice/mixed conditions when frozen earlier this week - good climbing with ice screws just a shallow dig away. The last two days of heat is melting snow fast and the ice faces are looking icy again. The N Glacier route of Athabasca is in great shape, but main trail seems to take a shortcut to gain the ramp - there are huge crevasses under there. Best to go a bit closer to the Silverhorn before turning across the ramp. Mt Columbia was climbed and Bryce is rumoured to look awesome.
Rogers Pass
Melting fast, and the alpine rock routes are good to go. Sir Donald was snowy earlier this week but is melting (except high/shady areas) and was climbed a few times. The N face bypass will still be snowy, so if you plan that way, take crampons/axe - otherwise just stay on the ridge. Tupper will also be a fine outing right now. The Adamants sound good on all sides, just snowy on high N facing terrain still. Snow coverage on the glaciers is still good in general, but afternoon heat is bad news for crevasse sags. There was an unfortunate crevasse fatality in the Selkirks earlier this week. Wear a rope!
Robson
The Robson icefall sounds ugly this year, and there's been serac action over the trail. Consider the ridge option to reach the Dome instead. Mountain conditions sound great, but you need a freeze. Some ice is just starting to show on the Kain and North Faces, while on the south face the Schwarz ledges still have snow on them.
_________________________________
In conclusion: Big, high alpine rock climbs (above 3000m) are not there - lots of snow and water. Glacier travel and ice faces are good, but go early and get ready for rockfall when it warms. Standard alpine routes are in good shape generally. Crevasses are becoming a greater hazard each day, as are the dripping cornices such as the ones observed on Glacier Peak today. All the east slope rock climbs are dry.
The season is upon us, and these glorious days are what make us feel alive. Have a great weekend.
Grant Statham
Mountain Guide
__________________________________________________
D O T E A S Y - "Join the web hosting revolution!"
http://www.doteasy.com
Athabasca - 08 Aug 6.jpg
Description: Binary data
Andromeda - 08 Aug 6.jpg
Description: Binary data
Robson Kain and N Face - 08 Aug 6.jpg
Description: Binary data
Robson S face - 08 Aug 6.jpg
Description: Binary data
Alberta Japanese Route and N Face - 08 Aug 6.jpg
Description: Binary data
Edith Cavell E Ridge and N Face - 08 Aug 6.jpg
Description: Binary data
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
|