[MCR] Mountain Conditions Summary report for Rockies and Columbia Mountains Issued August 22nd 2008

The Good News:
The forecast is looking pretty good for the weekend with a mix of sun and cloud and daytime highs in the mid twenties for most towns around the Columbia and Rocky mountains.

The Bad News:
Today’s storm brought the snowline down to ~2500m in most ranges.  There have been very few reports of conditions over the past two days due to the wet weather but I have been able to confirm that there is fresh snow accumulating just above treeline and estimates of 5-10cm above that although nobody I talked to had ventured in to the clouds today.

This new snow should clear off the lower sunny aspects by the weekend but you can expect things to be winter like on the shady aspect and these conditions may linger above ~3000m on most aspects as it will take some time to melt with the forecast temperatures.  

Things To Watch Out For:
There will probably be increased rockfall hazard as the snow melts away as well as some sluffing on the big snow and ice faces when the sun gets onto them.  Be leery of routes that start sunny but have shady climbing up high (NE Ridge Bugaboo Spire).  There may also be isolated wind slabs lurking about on terrain features like the ramp traverse on the classic Athabasca North Glacier.  It is likely that snow bridges that were just opening up will be hidden again and that steep faces that were bare ice will look snow covered but crampons will be needed. (Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col)

Where To Go?:
Hard to say how much things will get back in to shape by the weekend but I would probably aim for sunnier rock climbs like Yam, stuff around Canmore, Crescent Spire and Towers in the Bugaboos, Castle Mountain, Mount Louis, Mount Colin...for Saturday at least so you can have a look at conditions up high before you commit.

See you out there.


-- 
Marc Piché
ACMG Mountain Guide





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