[MCR] Totem Creek Ice, Icefields Parkway

Good climbing up at The Sanitarium today in Totem Creek near Mt Murchison.  Ice is in good condition, 100-120m of WI3/4 steps with several mixed routes above this. We climbed 'Involuntary Trepanation'.  Several of the other mixed routes looked good but we ran out of time.  Bringing a couple of cams/nuts might allow for even more options.  Routes are on the left side of the creek near the head of the valley and are not visible until directly below them (see Sean's Mixed Climbs Book).

 

We approached up the left side of Totem Creek on some game trails, scree and boulders with a bit of alder bashing in some avy paths which is minimized by staying near the creek.  Overall fairly good travel (2.5hrs in and 1.5hrs out). 

 

Warm temps, a bit of snow/rain and lots of strong winds up high today moving the snow around.  Not much snow (10-15cm) on the approach and little or no avalanche hazard on these routes today.
 

Cheers, Conrad Janzen
IFMGA Mountain Guide
http://www.flickr.com/photos/conradjanzenphotos

Sanitarium.jpg
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