Climbed the route yesterday with one
guest.
A good overnight freeze (-4 @ 2 AM @ 2000 meters)
gave us excellent travel conditions with zero boot pentetration all the way to
the Silverhorn. Once in the basin under the face (above 3000 meters) there
was a bit more dry snow and we had boot top penetration.
Depending on where you choose to cross the
bergschrund there are currently 2 rope lengths of snow climbing and 4 rope
stretchers on ice to get to the mixed step.
As has been talked about before the mixed step is
getting more difficult each year due to glacial recession. Yesterday there
was about 20 feet from the last ice screw until you reached the pitons in the
corner, up dirty, loose rock. Felt quite serious and definitely not
5.4! See picture. A pitch and a half above that on good ice
brings you to the summit.
We were on top at 930 and it was quite chilly so we
choose to descend the Ramp. This worked only because of the fact that the
snow was still frozen. There were old tracks coming down it and if it had
been warmer (or in direct sun) we would have gone down the AA side.
Careful consideration of current conditions is required before you commit to
this option.
There is a newly formed serac tower at the bottom
end of the Ramp. This looks ugly and you must walk underneath it to go up
or down. Caution here as the summer sets in - this has potential to be
problematic.
Have fun out there!
