There was no freeze last night on the Odaray Glacier, but the boot
penetration was only about 10cm, which made for reasonable walking. The
glacier was some what broken, but can be passed more easily on the climbers
right side.
Getting from the glacier to the ridge was the crux of the day. The snow is
pulling back further and further with the hot days. This makes for about
30m of undesirable, low angle, loose rock to the first piton anchor, where
the rock quality gets much better. There are some snow patches between the
anchor and the ridge but are easily walked around.
The ridge itself is almost completely snow free and in good condition.
Aaron Beardmore
Mountain Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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