|
Went in to the Kain Route on Robson the old fashioned way on Monday to a camp at about 2400m on the glacier. Coverage and travel on the glacier was good but it's melting fast with the heat. Firn line was at about 2100m but rising fast. We left camp at about 3am MST yesterday morning and got to the Dome via the Robson-Resplendent col ridge. Overnight temps were warm but clear, with a reasonably supportive radiation freeze crust. The Mousetrap looks doable, but the ridge added a bit of class and variety to the day and is straightforward and safe and isn't too far out of the way. The steep ice line left of the Mousetrap looks like it would go too right now, but maybe a bit sporty over the schrund. We started up the Kain Face at about 7:30am, by which point the crust was still holding things together, but it would have been preferable to have been there a couple of hours earlier as the schrund crossing was a bit sporty in the heat and the crust was breaking down quickly. I was able to scrape down to ice for the belays on the middle three pitches, about 70cm down under sloppy snow. The traverse and the Roof were in good shape with secure footing for the most part. We summitted around noon and descended in the typical thick mist of Robson's afternoon ballcap. If you are planning a trip there in the near future you will want to have a cold clear night and an early start. You might also consider bringing along bivi gear and a stove, as we did, to the top of the Kain Face so that you can wait in comfort until the cool and safety of morning for the descent -- in its present condition it's a dangerous place to be much past early morning. See attached for a variety of photos from the trip. Regards, Tom Wolfe AAG/ASG
_______________________________________________ These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information. |
| Previous by Date: | [MCR] Mt. Odaray, Public Mountain Conditions Report |
|---|---|
| Next by Date: | [MCR] Additional Athabasca info.., Public Mountain Conditions Report |