Was up at the Neil Colgan hut over the weekend via
the Perren route, and climbed the Center Ice Bulge on Fay and the NW ridge
on Little.
The bergschrunds are starting to becoming
problematic for both the Ice Bulge, the Roth/Kallen (which was very dirty
with rockfall) and the descent off of the West ridge. Make sure you
study the places to cross while you are hiking to the base of the face.
The route itself was 90% ice with good gear and anchors all of the way up.
Both Mt. Little and the Perren approach were bone dry.
Glacier travel was slow and becoming a bit sporty
with no overnight recovery in the snowpack. Foot penetration was between
boot top and waist in a few spots on the Fay glacier. Careful probing and
keeping the rope tight were critical for safe travel.
We had very unsettled weather with numerous squalls
roll through and some mid morning and afternoon electrical
activity. We needed to constantly look over our shoulder
to keep an eye on what was coming our way..
Hafe fun!
Mike Stuart ACMG Alpine/Assistant Ski
Guide
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