Subject: | [MCR] Mt. Begbie-Monashee Mountains July 25-26 |
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Date: | Tue, 28 Jul 2009 14:36:45 -0700 |
Guided two guests up Mt. Begbie's N Ridge (Normal Route) on Sunday.
Due to exposed ice, crampons are necessary at this point to ascend the glacier's toe. The snow covering the lower glacier is also rapidly diminishing exposing ice above the glaciers toe and making for weak snow bridges where there was less than 40cm of snow. Careful probing as well as keeping the rope tight were two techniques used to keep from immersing oneself in many of the water filled crevasses.
Ascending from the glacier to the rock ledge currently presents little difficulty with the moat still full of snow, however this is changing rapidly and caution is needed to execute this maneuver safely. A couple of .25" to 1" cams will allow You to build an anchor above the moat.
Contrary to local rumor the bolts on the traverse ledge are IN place and in good shape.
Of note were the millions of biting insects at all times of the day and night at the campground and some distance into the alpine.
Darek Glowacki
ACMG Ski Guide/Assistant Alpine Guide
Revelstoke Alpine Adventures Darek Glowacki ACMG Ski Guide and Assistant Alpine Guide P.O. Box 699 REVELSTOKE BC CANADA V0E 2S0 ph# 250 837 5140(home) email Darek@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx _______________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________ These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information. |
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