Subject: | [MCR] Rogers Pass / Glacier Circle Aug 6-9 |
---|---|
Date: | Tue, 11 Aug 2009 09:07:04 -0700 |
On Aug 7 we travelled from the Asulkan Hut over
Youngs Peak to Glacier Circle via the Illecillewaet Neve.
The snow had a rock solid freeze overnight despite
an air temp of +8C at 5:30am at the Asulkan hut. The NW face of Youngs was all
ice for 3 pitches and then 2 pitches of hard snow with the odd ice lens. We
were able to work some crevasses on the right side which provided nice stances
at the belays, but we kept our distance from the far right which showed signs of
previous rockfall activity.
The north ridge of Youngs was easily descended on
rock up high, and then just enough snow on ice above the "cornice climbing
pitch" (on Murray Toft's map) to squeak by without crampons. We did a high
arching traverse on the Illecillewaet through mushy suncups to reach the Witch
Tower and easy snow slopes down to the rock. We followed steep moraines of hard
dirt down to the mosquito infested valley bottom and took off our boots to cross
the river before picking up the illusive trail to the Glacier Circle
hut.
The Hut has about 7L of surplus white gas right now
and no shortage of mice. It has had extensive renovations though and sports a new floor and roof. A small morainal lake to the south was warm enough to swim in.
On Aug 9 we exited via the climber's left of the
two options on the Mt. Macoun side without having to take off boots or use the
rope. The exit off the Illecillewaet to Perly Rock was surprisingly crevassed
in the last half kilometre (for how flat the terrain is) with rather large
suncups.
Enjoy,
Shaun King - Alpine Guide
www.mountainsense.ca 250-505-5139 _______________________________________________ These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information. |
Previous by Date: | [MCR] Rockies: Goodsir Towers, Public Mountain Conditions Report |
---|---|
Next by Date: | [MCR] Tonquin area, Public Mountain Conditions Report |