The ACMG guide courses have been using the south ridge of Sir Donald
as an optional descent over the last decade or so. This description
complements the description in the Selkirks South guidebook (D.P.
Jones 2001). The descent of the S. ridge of Sir Donald is described on
page 106/107 can be confusing depending on how one matches the
description to the terrain. This description and the photos may help:
"The upper south ridge is a straight forward down climb on easy
terrain with loose rock on ledges. Any initial difficulties can be
down climbed on the right (west) side of the ridge. Aim for an obvious
large flat promontory level with the N. summit of Terminal--from which
the ridge drops suddenly. R1: Rappel or down climb 15m just east of
the ridge to the next anchor (slings, one stopper). R2: Rap 25m down
and east to a hanging belay (thread belay; bring slings or avoid with
double ropes). R3: 25m to a sloping scree ledge. Scramble up on 3rd
class ledges back to the ridge to a sling rappel station. R4: 26m
descend down the west side to a large scree ledge north of the col.
Easy traversing and exposed downclimbing takes on to the Sir Donald-N.
Terminal Peak col.
>From the col traverse under the west side of N. Terminal peak staying
below the obvious scree bowl (snow early season) on good quartzite
ledges. Look for an easy rising ledge (ramp) system to gulley exiting
at to the low point in the west ridge of N. Terminal Peak. Boots,
crampons, ice axe likely needed to descend the Illecillewaet Glacier
to Perley Rock. Otherwise the longer West ridge of N. Terminal pk can
be used to avoid the snow/ice".
Colin Zacharias
Mountain Guide
Promontory Rappels.jpg
Description: JPEG image
SirD_southridge descent.jpg
Description: JPEG image
Terminal Exit Ramp.jpg
Description: JPEG image
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
| 
