[MCR] Rockies: Hector

Up Hector today. Felt like midsummer with hot temps and not a cloud on the sky.

The peak is in typical late season condition, lots of large open crevasses and the smaller slots are masked by the snow from earlier in the week. The upper slopes are hard grey, brittle ice. Bring screws, good crampons and a real ice axe.

Above 3000 m the recent snow is still dry and powdery on north aspects, I could see that there may be a few little lenses of windslab poking around.

The piton that worked well as an anchor at the top of the rocks and below the summit talus slope has been removed for some reason. You're left with a uncomfortable and marginal stance to belay the second up the hard, rock-embedded ice and awkward moves to gain the rock. It may be worthwhile bringing a baby angle or a leeper to fix there, or a couple of micro cams would work too.

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

www.alpinism.com

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