Climbed the route today. Mix of soft, wet ice
and sun baked junk. Good screw placements required a bit of digging around
in the bad ice.
Its a good idea to pick your line on this side of
the wall from the road as the bench beneath the last pitch has melted away
exposing the cliff and large amounts of running water. You cannot see this
from the base.
Expect more melting/icefall than normal on sunny
days. Icefields Parkway was very slippery in spots, with 2 cars in the
ditch on the way home this afternoon.
Have fun!
Mike Stuart Alpine
Guide
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