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I guided Slipstream yesterday and we found the route in perfect condition. Sorry for the long-winded conditions report, but then again it’s a long-winded affair. On the approach, we had excellent foot travel on a wind scoured and supportive snowpack. We saw no new avalanches but witnessed a size 3 serac avalanche from the very active serac at the head of the Dome glacier. We set our bivouac upon the moraine overlooking this glacier. Careful scrutiny of the route revealed that the serac which caps Slipstream to be standing vertical (as opposed to overhanging). It had no telltale azure blue scars, which are an indicator of a fresh collapse, there was no serac debris at the base. The cornices that crown the route are not large and still growing. Having said this, I should add that my highly experienced guest and I, given the conditions, agreed to take a calculated risk- since most serac’s and cornices, including these, do pose an unpredictable objective hazard that can never be fully mitigated. Two other major environmental factors that were in our favor for this route were mainly calm winds- of critical importance for this reputed spindrifting route (hence the name). In addition, temperatures were moderate for February ranging from -7 to -12 up higher. Skies were mainly overcast with very light precipitation at times.
Advance to the base was along a straightforward compression zone ramp up the South arm of the Dome Glacier. There are some crevaces but they are well bridged. Slipstream has changed somewhat in character since I climbed it several years ago. Where as then the ice cruxes had been on the early pitches, now the opposite felt true with difficulties increasing. Already very sustained at WI 4 to 4+, it seemed more so yet. The ice on route is amazing, very fat, neon blue and there ice everywhere- several potential variations exist. It did get more brittle on the upper tiers. I chose to be offset from center for the entire way, theorizing that what must come down usually does so right in the middle- this proved true on 2 spindrift showers- an occurrence to take note of considering the winds were calm. The snow slopes on route were in excellent condition, with no discernable slab, mostly neve with some softer ankle to shin deep snow.
We began our day at 03:30 and at 16:00 we were at the base of the final ice tier. I considered the daylight left to us and the fact that the route is hardly over from there. Many parties have been benighted or rescued from the sting in the tail exit cornice. Not to mention the last snow slope is the one of greatest concern given it is big, the most loaded and does not benefit from spindrift snowpack compaction as the lower ones do. One really needs excellent visibility at the top, not to mention the walk down along the corniced ridge to the Snowdome-Little Snowdome col rappels. Thus, I opted for rappelling the route. It was straightforward though tedious and we counted 15 60-meter rappels all on v-threads. It is important to make note of landmarks on the way up in case one rappels off, as going down can be very confusing with that amount of terrain. Overall, it was a marathon of high quality blue ice.
Happy ice bashing,
Eric Dumerac- IFMGA/ACMG Mountain Guide
www.iceXperts.ca 1-800-309-7673 eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
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