Climbed a few routes in Field recently and thought I would post conditions.
Climbed Silk Tassle a couple days ago. Route has seen a fair amount of travel,
and can easily be done in one pitch. It made a few settlements while I was on
it, probably due to the evening freeze after seeing days and days of sun.
Something to be aware of on those sunbleached routes early in the mornings
(which is when you would want to do them!).
Carlsberg was in good shape with the approach pitch in but a little less fat
this year then normal. The upper pitch(es) of Carlsberg were very hooked out,
and didn't seem to be reforming much, but I suppose this could change at any
time.
Pilsner has the right side touching down and is a narrow pillar with good
hooking and stemming on the rock. Better screws then you would think, and a
nice ledge to top out on. Still steep and technical though. The next pitch
goes up and left and through some chandeliery ice that has improved with all
the travel. Rapping off the bolted station on the right prevents you from
coming down over the big daggers off the main flow.
Sarah Hueniken
Alpine Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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