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ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued July 22, 2010
Both the Rocky and Columbia Mountains are transitioning into excellent summer conditions. Reports from all areas show that travel conditions are generally good and most standard routes are snow free where they need to be. The exception to this would be the highest elevation rock routes where there may still be too much snow for efficient or safe climbing.
Places I would be thinking about going right now are lower to mid-elevation rock climbs and most classic mountaineering objectives. Glacier and snow travel is generally very good although there are reports of some postholing, especially in thinner snowpack areas (places with about 1 meter of snowpack). Most "normal" objectives in the Bugaboos, Rogers Pass, the Bow Valley and elsewhere in the Rockies are being climbed.
Places I would cautiously poke my nose at (being prepared to say "no") are some of the high rock peaks such as Sir Donald, the Howser Towers and Temple East Ridge. Alberta, Hungabee and other peaks of that nature are almost certainly still out and I would avoid them. Even a route like Victoria S Ridge is spicy right now and only experienced climbers need apply.
The forecast is for more settled and warmer weather starting this weekend. This will create the normal summer hazards: rockfall, loose snow avalanches, afternoon lightning storms and plenty of other climbers knocking things down on your head. The way to avoid all these issues are early starts. It is pretty hard to start too early when climbing!
Mark Klassen
ACMG Mountain Guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted
them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors,
omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time
and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain.
Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety.
Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning
trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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