| Guided Homage to the Spider on Mt Louis yesterday, Aug 14th. The route is in great shape with all of the pitches dry and climbable as per Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies (although we never found "... where a bolt protects a move around a block"). There are now new ring bolts and bolts forming all of the stations up to the Medieval Alley, rappelling the steep climbing would be accommodated by these stations.
On Tues, Aug 12th, my guest and I rappelled away from threatening weather at the end of the second pitch of the CMC Wall on Mt Yamnuska (this is the station below the 5.11b crux pitch). Our rappel was very intimidating as 55 meters was in space and the ropes ended in space way down there. At about 35 meters down it was possible to -just- get some kick off and swing to grab good holds and climb over to a two bolt anchor on the right (General Pain?). From there the rapping was more normal and 57 meters to the ground.
On Monday we climbed Rain Check on Guides Rock ... never let it be doubted that Dave Morgan could handle a run out. The crux pitch should test the mental metal of most, I can say that it did for me, for the second time since the 80s.
Happy trails, Barry Blanchard UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide 1 403 609 4615 cell 1 403 609 1321  
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