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Climbed Aberdeen the other day (14th) Route was in
good icy conditions, with pitched climbing required to gain the bench in the
middle as well as the upper headwall. The shrund crossing was fun and
interesting. It will become more difficult as a key bridge melts out. Good screw
anchors the whole way and soft friendly ice. Some rockfall observed off the
cliffs on both the left and right side of the glacier tongue. Lots of rocks
melting out of the glacier threatening to fall on climbers but if you get an
early start so things are frozen and stay more right as you ascend the
tongue this hazard is minimized. A small nut and small cam are useful for a
belay at the bottom of the final rock step.
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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