[MCR] Whistler - Duffy Ice

Subject: [MCR] Whistler - Duffy Ice
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 2010 15:40:40 +0000
Hey all,


On a drive over from Whistler to Lillooet yesterday I noticed the following from the car window:


  • At 10am it was -1 to -3 degrees over the pass and around all the ice climbs
  • Entropy looks to be in good shape but has 30-50cm of wet snow on it.
  • Phsyco Pillar looks sporting. It looked climbable but the pillar hasn't properly formed yet and it might not be on the ground yet. I would still go in there to climb, but would almost certainly toprope the thing.
  • Blue Moon on Rye fell down leaving a wet chimney with a few shards of ice.
  • Boxing Day is in and quite fat but looked like it had been touched by the sun.
  • Shreddie is not there.
  • Most of The Rambles are there and in good shape.
  • Carlsberg is in and large for this time of the year but as always looks like it woudl be hard to protect.
  • The Tube was a wide curtain that was 3 meters from touching down.
  • Loose Lady approach pitches are there, but I couldn't see the top.
  • Sincronicity is fat at the top but desparate at the bottom. The first pitch or two has little to no ice. Bring rock pro. The top looks great. Nothing else is formed on that wall
  • Counting Chickens was was there and as fat as it got last winter.

We climbed at Roach Motel last Sunday (there has been warmer temps and rain since), it is in but skinny. Bring some rock pro. Although harder it is safer to lead up the bolted thing just to the left of it, 5 bolts are exposed before the upper ice which took good screws.  The corner to the left has ice too right now and makes a fun grade 3. There were also reports at that time that Calcheck ice was in, the rain could have had its way with it though.

Have fun out there.

Cheers,
Conny Amelunxen
IFMGA



_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The 
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in 
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable 
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information 
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions 
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.