| Today, myself and Paul Masiar climbed the Replicant. We apologize for not leaving a note on our car saying which route we were climbing... a very good idea to do : )
We enjoyed the warm temperatures, but the winds steadily increased today. By the time we were rappelling our ropes and jackets were caught in some serious updrafts. The wind picked up to very strong gusts taking our ropes and throwing them up the route. We had fairly consistent spindrift on the last pitch. On the descent we observed a sz 1.5 avalanche: 5-10cm deep, 50m wide by 150m long on 45+º terrain on a planar rocky bed surface, just from wind loading taking lots of rocks down with it. Even though it hasn't snowed for awhile, and there isn't much snow underfoot, there is still snow available for transport in these windy conditions.
We found the route to be very dry (perhaps the inversions of the past week have been sublimating the ice). On the first pitch there are many hooks, the ice has lots of air in it and seems to be delaminating from the rock in places. I didn't take comfort in many of my screw placements. On the second pitch we found dry and brittle conditions. Better screw placements with a few hooks. The route is outfitted with abolocovs and the approach trail is in great condition for a steep approach trail. : )
Thanks to Paul, Eric and the International Guides Bureau for a great day out. jen olson
acmg/ifmga mountain guide
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