|
My fellow Mountain Guide, Steve Holeczi, and I bicycled in to attempt The Replicant yesterday, Dec 9th. Careful man tracking of footprints in the snow revealed another party ahead of us, yes writing your objectives on the vehicle is a favour to those behind. Steve and I decided to check out Sacre' Blue. Two and half hours of walking later we rappeled to the base of the route from climber's left. The route is in anemic shape, possibly 'just' climbable for a strong party with a bit of rock gear. We had no rock gear, and turned around after climbing the first 40 meters of thin ice. If I were to go back, and I'm not having climbed the route a half a dozen times in the past when it is an ICE route, I'd take a half dozen pitons, a half set of knuts and 4 cams from finger to fist.
Doubting that there was enough ice to rappel the gully we rappeled from trees on climber's right. The winds were swaying the trees as we walked down through the timber. Mountain Guide www.barryblanchard.ca www.yamnuska.com
|
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
|
