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My fellow guide, Matt Mueller, and I guided on Murchison Falls and But, My Daddy's a Psycho! yesterday, Feb 16th. The old track to treeline definitely aided our approach. Above treeline it was lost to windslabs and blown-in snow and it was a lot of work to get to the ice. There are windslabs on the slopes above treeline and carrying an avalanche shovel, probe and beacon is a good idea right now.
The climbs are in good shape with My Daddy formed as a proper ice climb -no rock gear necessary- but hard for it's grade. Lots of water on both climbs gumming up the ropes with ice/slush-that-freezes-to-ice. Neither of our parties climbed the last pillar, which is about 75 meters, as we were out of time.
Happy trails, Barry Blanchard Mountain Guide www.barryblanchard.ca www.yamnuska.com
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