Hi All,
I just finished a 5 day Mont Blanc program. Despite the
really dry winter here, the higher elevation conditions in the massif
this Spring have generally been good. In the last month, the weather
seem to have shifted to a more unsettled Spring like pattern bringing
snow at higher elevation periodically. Up to a meter of snow was
reported a few weeks ago at higher elevation. As I am writing, it is
raining hard in town and they are forecasting upwards of 40cm with
strong winds above 3500m. The avalanche conditions in the alpine will be
touchy for the next few days. In the short term, all this new snow will
enhance-maintain the alpine conditions and normalize
for the lack of snow this past winter. However, it could also be a short
term band-aid. Below 2800m, things are pretty grim. The super dry
winter has taken a toll and the glaciers are mostly free of snow and
melting quickly. It looks more like mid-August than mid-June down there.
Many classic alpine mixed routes are still in good shape. The
regular route on Mont Blanc du Tacul is not straightforward and has many
open crevasses forcing some detours. It is also more threaten by seracs
this year. The normal route on Mont Blanc (Arete Des Bosses) is in
great shape and as usual well traveled. Before this last storm people
were climbing some of the classic higher elevation south facing routes
on dry rock. The lower elevation alpine rock routes in the "Aiguilles
rouges" are generally snow free.
Wishing you all a great start to the summer season!
David Lussier
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
www.summitmountainguides.com
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Mont Blanc du Tacul.jpg
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Mont Blanc.jpg
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South face of Aiguile du Midi.jpg
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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