I spent the last five days guiding a group with my fellow guides, Jen Olson and Jason Billing.
June 17th Jen and I guided the South Ridge of Mt Norquay which is dry with only a few patches of snow on the summit ridgeline. Descending the gully beside the tea house/Lone Pine chairlift granted great bumsliding due to a large avalanche that filled the gully up this winter, a fast easy descent right now.
June 18th Jen and I guided A2 via the Boundary Glacier. Great snow coverage on the glacier right now, we had little concern from crevasses even at the Boundary Peak corner. Good boot top step kicking all the way with the very occasional knee deep post hole. We didn't use crampons.
June 20th Jen, Jason and I guided Mt Andromeda via the AA Col. We decided to ascend slopes and a gully left of the usual ascent/descent slope (it looked like getting over the bergschrund below that route normal would be a challenge). Good step kicking and short roping to 3/4 height were we ran out a couple of belayed ropelengths. Likewise with the gully above the AA Col proper. Good step kicking to the summit. We wore crampons from the bergschrund, and return, but not on the glacier. Turned out to be a great day for one that started in the rain.
Happy trails, Barry Blanchard Mountain Guide www.barryblanchard.ca www.yamnuska.com
Mr Happy, Jason Billings, in the AA Col proper. |