[MCR] Gmoser Route, Mt Louis

Climbed the Gmoser Route with Elisabeth Dupuis and Al Hardy. Approach, route, and descent all in great shape. 

The main hazard of the day was dealing with some rockfall from another party on the Kain Route who accidentally descended an incorrect rap anchor just as we entered the gully above the Gmoser crux pitch. This anchor is the first pair of bolts that you encounter ascending the ridge on the Kain route as you swing out onto the east face and is easily mistaken for the rap station that is in descriptions of the Kain Route. For some reason the tat seems to keep finding its way back on these bolts despite being diligently chopped (of course chopping the bolts would solve the problem once and for all...).

These first anchors take you down into the upper part of the loose gully that threatens the Gmoser Route, which is one gully too early.

The correct anchor is the next pair of bolts about 50m further up, or you can use another obscure pair of bolts directly pressed up against the Diamond Face about another 100m further up that avoids the Kain route traverse altogether.

We appreciated the care and concern taken by the party above us, who stopped and waited for us to get out of the way as soon as they realised what was going on. Good communication and cooperation were key. Thanks!

Tom

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Tom Wolfe
Mountain Guide ACMG/IFMGA
twolfe@xxxxxxxxxxx

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