[MCR] Mt. Cline - SW Ridge, July 14, 2011

Enjoyed a cool, sunny day up on the SW Ridge of Mt. Cline this morning with Kris Irwin and Rockies Ice Specialists.  -5'C at the top at 0930 and a good (mostly supportive) crust above 2900m allowed for easy travel with crampons and ice axe from above the two notches to the summit.  The two notches are dry and we found that a 30m rope with a couple long slings and locking carabiners were enough to climb and rappel through this safely.  The bolt and piton station between the notches works for both of them using this setup.  No glacier travel gear was needed.  Overall the route is in very good condition.

 

The trail in was in pretty good condition, the first km has some recent blow down and eroded sections but they are easily bypassed and beyond this the trail improves and there has been some recent maintenance.

 

We would have appreciated the following information on the approach yesterday so use it if it is helpful...

 

...After about 3.5km of travel up the West Fork of Thompson Creek you will see a waterfall up and left that comes out of the upper basin into which you are headed.  As soon as you catch a glimpse of this waterfall look for a cairned trail leading left up a steep gravel slope/fan.  (The left turn is at UTM 0522891 E, 5764264 N, NAD 83, approx 1730m).   Follow this steep trail up to the edge of a cliff band, about 600m left of the waterfall.  Here you will find a good trail contouring right into the trees above the cliff band and into the upper basin.

 

Great views, excellent bivy sites and a fun day in the mountains!

 

Cheers, Conrad Janzen
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

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