![]()
ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued July 21, 2011
Weather:
After a brief break in the weather over last weekend, we have seen another unsettled week in both ranges. If you were out and about this week and your timing was a bit off, you likely experienced frequent dousing showers all too often accompanied by significant lightning events.
There is a hopeful change in the offing for the weekend. Models forecast a cold front passage Thursday (today ? and what do you know it is raining outside as I type), after which they promise milder and drier conditions over the weekend ? let?s hope that is true!.
Rockies:
Terrain in the Alpine areas of the main ranges remain snow covered with travel conditions highly dependent on the previous nights crust formation ? of which there has been little lately. The upside is that glacial travel is still reasonable with more snow and stronger bridging than normal for this time of season, though obviously still prudent to be applying the rope when crossing one.
Front range classics such as Mt. Louis and Castle are now in condition but the more snowbound main ranges and their mixed routes such as Mt. Temple East Ridge, and Mt. Victoria will still need some time to shed their snow. The more pure snow climbs, such as Mt. Lefroy and Mt. Athabasca would likewise provide good travel conditions if there was a cold enough night to form a strong crust.
Reports from the Jasper area likewise indicate that more time and some REAL summer weather are needed to bring a variety of higher routes into condition.
Columbias:
The snowline has finally retreated from the Treeline, but only barely. There is still significant snow to deal with on any approach to the major routes which would suggest bringing along an iceaxe/skipoles for the next while.
Fellow Guide, Jeff Mitchell, was in the Sapphire Col area of Rogers Pass last weekend and reported good travel conditions on the Asulkan Glacier (5-10cm foot penetration) with well bridged crevasses. He also noted a large slab avalanche(size 3.0) off of Mt. Fox?s N. Face. They completed the Sapphire Col-Abbot Crest traverse and found the hiking trail to be 90% snow free. Once the weather improves (and all that lichen dries off!) the sunnier ridgecrests, such as Mt. Tupper and perhaps even Uto, should be worth checking out ? Jeff said there was still a bit of snow on the NW ridge and lots on the West face bypass of Mt. Sir Donald.
In the Bugaboos things are likewise coming around, and it sounds like routes on Bugaboo Spire, Crescent Spire/Tower and perhaps even Pigeon are being ascended when the weather allows.
I have not heard any reports from the Valhalla?s but I would expect it to be a little further along towards summer conditions and I am sure people are climbing routes such as Gimli South Buttress etc.
Hazards:
Avalanches, Cornices!
Both are still a lingering threat, well past when they would usually be such an issue. This is not a normal summer so please don?t treat it like one. Ongoing vigilance of conditions and timing will need to be applied to properly manage these hazards.
I would also like to mention Serac hazard, which on Mt. Athabasca this year appears to be an ongoing issue. Unfortunately the only advice I can offer here is that of avoidance, and if exposure is unavoidable, a darn quick pace to limit the time you are exposed!
As they say, "Timing is Everything" next to "Location Location Location" which is of course all about "Timing"!
Scott Davis
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
|
![]()
|
![]()
|
![]()
|
|
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted
them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors,
omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time
and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain.
Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety.
Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning
trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
|
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
|