I guided an ascent of the AA Col today, July 25th. Overall good travel with a mild freeze that deepened the higher we went. We found challenging flat footing on a glassy bed surface just over the bergschrund courtesy of yesterday's solar sloughing. !00 meters above the schrund, and out climber's left to the route, the step kicking improved.
Spooky to see the recent avalanche activity on the north side from on high -one wind slab, and two serac calvings. We witnessed snow cleaning off of the east flank of the Silverhorn, and just north of the Andromeda Strain area once the sun had been on these areas for a bit. We also saw a cornice fail and strafe the first Snow and Ice Practice Gully (aka: Near Earth).
We descended the AA Col where the aforementioned glassy bed surface was still frozen at noon and not secure enough for us to move together. I lowered my guest one ropelength down the slipperiest bit.
Happy trails, Barry Blanchard Mountain Guide www.barryblanchard.ca www.yamnuska.com
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