[MCR] Mt. Stanley / Kootenay National Park / Rockies July 19 & 20

This info is a bit old now but we were on Stanley July 19 & 20. 

 

Both the east and west glacier tongues were bare ice with lots of overlying rocks that were rocketing down with high regularity at 5am on the 19th with no overnight freeze.  We were able to bypass the western tongue via the rock ridge on the left (2nd class with one step of 3rd).  Above the tongue some serac and rock fall hazard exists on the left but was avoidable by cramponing right across ice patches.  The eastern tongue has no bypass option and seemed out of the question without a very solid freeze.

 

We found a very cool glacier camp beside a rock fin at GR 667698 (NAD 83).  July 20 we climbed the lower slopes of the Kahl Route to the flat shoulder on the NW ridge with easy step kicking past the well filled schrund and 2 steeper snow pitches to the shoulder.  Consistent with Mark Klassen's observations we found unconsolidated, untrustworthy snow above 3000m and avoided the steeper upper slopes of the Kahl Route.

A large cornice capped the Waterman Couloir and deep ugly avalanches had slid down the length of the route.

 

Cheers,

Shaun King  ACMG / UIAGM Mountain Guide

www.mountainsense.ca  +1-250-505-5139

www.facebook.com/mountainsense

 

Mt. Stanley - Kahl Route.JPG
Description: JPEG image

Mt. Stanley west tongue.JPG
Description: JPEG image

Mt. Stanley Camp.JPG
Description: JPEG image

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The 
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in 
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable 
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information 
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions 
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.