Subject: | [MCR] Mt. Stanley / Kootenay National Park / Rockies July 19 & 20 |
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Date: | Mon, 25 Jul 2011 19:51:18 -0700 |
This info is a bit
old now but we were on Stanley July 19 & 20.
Both the east and
west glacier tongues were bare ice with lots of overlying rocks that were
rocketing down with high regularity at 5am on the 19th with no overnight
freeze. We were able to bypass the western tongue via the rock ridge on
the left (2nd class with one step of 3rd). Above the tongue some serac and
rock fall hazard exists on the left but was avoidable by cramponing right across
ice patches. The eastern tongue has no bypass option and seemed out of the
question without a very solid freeze.
We found a very cool
glacier camp beside a rock fin at GR 667698 (NAD 83). July 20 we
climbed the lower slopes of the Kahl Route to the flat shoulder on the NW ridge
with easy step kicking past the well filled schrund and 2 steeper snow pitches
to the shoulder. Consistent with Mark Klassen's observations we found
unconsolidated, untrustworthy snow above 3000m and avoided the steeper upper
slopes of the Kahl Route.
A large cornice
capped the Waterman Couloir and deep ugly avalanches had slid down the length of
the route.
Cheers,
Shaun King ACMG / UIAGM Mountain Guide
www.mountainsense.ca
+1-250-505-5139
Mt. Stanley - Kahl Route.JPG
Mt. Stanley west tongue.JPG
Mt. Stanley Camp.JPG _______________________________________________ These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information. |
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